Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
